Seeking Future Tourist Destinations
in Harmony with Nature

A journey into the complex, untouched forest continually preserved by Maeda Ippoen Foundation.

"The Forest in Akan has been protected by human hands for over 100 years," says Shigeru Takada, who has spent his childhood in these place, as we walk through the place known as the "Forest of Light". Akanko Onsen, famous as a tourist destination visited by over three million people annually, is located within a national park. However, in reality, people only reside in an area measuring 2km by 1km near the Akanko Onsen town. Not just this Forest of Light, but the forests around Lake Akan have a history of being protected for a long time by the Maeda Ippoen Foundation.
"The pivotal change from 'cutting' to 'appreciating' towards conservation was initiated by Masana Maeda, the founder of Akan Maeda Ippo-en. Toshimitsu Nida, the current chairman of the Maeda Ippo-en Foundation, explained this to us the previous day." Without selling the land or leasing it to hotels, they have maintained a balance between revenue and protection. For over a century, they have been safeguarding the Akan Forest, which spans the entire area around Lake Akan, excluding the onsen town, covering 3,892 hectares. It's astonishing that there were Japanese people with such a concept of nature conservation even before it became a national park in 1934. Moreover, it's surprising that this land was originally acquired for logging purposes for establishing a ranch for training horses.
They are also working on forest restoration now. It's not uncommon in Japan to have private lands within national parks, but it's rare to find owners who are actively engaged in protection and restoration. "I believe the work of forest restoration is endless. It should be passed down through generations. That's the mission of the Maeda Ippoen Foundation," Mr. Nida's words echo in my mind. Maintaining untouched nature may seem paradoxical in terms, but it requires the essential efforts of human hands

The name "Forest of Light’” is derived from the beauty of the sunlight filtering through the trees in the mixed coniferous and broadleaf forest, overlaid with Mitsuko Maeda, the third-generation owner of the Maeda Ichibo Garden.Mitsuko initiated the restoration of this forest — including reforestation on former ranch lands and the regeneration of natural forests — a project that continues to this day.
This forest, dense with various species of trees, possesses a unique quality where sunlight manages to permeate through the foliage strikingly. The idea is to restore forests that have once been interfered with by human hands, utilizing the natural power of nature as much as possible.Therefore, the fallen trees are left as much as possible as they are, serving as a nursery bed for young trees to rise anew.

This forest has been Mr. Takada's playground since his childhood. He recalls spending all his break times here. Currently, access to the area is restricted; entry is only possible with a certified guide, such as Mr. Takada, who is known as a "forest guide". "Originally, no one was allowed to enter, but now, people can experience the forest when accompanied by a forest guide," he explains. Currently, there are seven forest guides, all residents of Akan, who must complete a rigorous two-year training program. Due to the area's restricted status, there are no clear trails—it remains a wild territory. "Look, a deer," he says, pulling a small object from his pocket and blowing into it with force. The poignant "kyu-ee" sound is from Mr. Takada's deer whistle. In response, the call of a deer echoes from afar, creating an almost conversational effect. Mr. Takada also embodies a hunter's role, having gone hunting with his father since his early years."

"I've never actually verified this, but I suspect that the Ainu patterns might be inspired by things like the marks left by insect bites on trees," says Mr. Takada. He often uses the word "probably." This might be his way of maintaining a sense of humility towards nature, acknowledging the realm of the unknown.
Looking ahead, a fox appeared out of somehere. Mr. Takada quickly imitates its cry. His vocal mimicry is impressive; however, as he talks to the fox, exclaiming "Wan, wan!", it seems like a habit unchanged since his childhood.

"Let's make it night then," Mr. Takada says, handing me an eye mask. As we walk through the forest blindfolded, a sweet scent wafts through the air. I realize that depriving myself of sight sharpens my other senses.
The source of the sweet aroma is a giant Katsura tree. "Interestingly, Katsura leaves start releasing this sweet fragrance only after they fall. I wonder why. It must be something good,' notes Mr. Takada. The forest is also home to a diverse array of trees living freely and expansively. These include Yezo spruce, Todomatsu pine, elm, Amur cork tree, wheel tree, Bodhi tree, alder, and yew. "Can you tell the difference between Yezo spruce and Todomatsu pine?" Mr. Takada asks. "The branches of the Yezo spruce droop as if to say, 'Enough already,' while those of the Todomatsu pine stretch upwards as if reaching for the heavens." Vines of wild grapes and Kokuwa are draped everywhere. 'The Ainu people use these to make Teshima, a kind of snowshoe,'Mr. Takada explains."

Walking with Mr. Takada through the forest felt like a return to the innocence of childhood. We crawled into giant tree hollows, blindfolded ourselves, and smelled our surroundings. "Say 'asahayuki(Snow in the morning)!" It seems that when you say this, bears think it's time for their winter sleep and doze off," Mr. Takada joked. This was his unique way of making a bear-related joke, a mnemonic for safety: "Don't panic,(Awatenai) don't make noise(Sawaganai), don't run(Hashiranai), move slowly(Yukkurito), and keep your distance(Kyoriwooku)." "As long as you adhere to these, you'll be fine," said Mr. Takada, seemingly enjoying himself. To him, brown bears are probably like old friends. Searching for deer until the very end, Mr. Takada stood in the forest, appearing reluctant to leave. He probably wanted everyone to witness the splendid deer of Akan. Just like the forest, Mr. Takada's relationship with nature probably hasn't changed since his childhood. Preserving these unchanging aspects is crucial in nature-focused tourism.

Marimo: Nature's Messenger

Spherical marimo balls (moss ball) gently rise to the surface of the lake, creating a mystical scene where one almost expects to hear someone calling, ”Wakana-san." This phenomenon occurs at Kinetanpe, a place in Lake Akan known for its thriving spherical marimo. Here, human access is completely restricted. The individual clad in a patched dry suit, immersed in the water, is Mr. Wakana Isamu, a researcher dedicated to marimo study. Wakana, whose passion for marimo extends from Akan to varieties worldwide, dons a dry suit bearing signs of numerous repairs—a testament to his sincere commitment to field research.
Marimo, as a species, are not globally rare. In fact, spherical marimo are not exclusive to Lake Akan, as other examples exist. However, what distinguishes Lake Akan is the large size of its marimo and their tendency to cluster. Following the confirmed extinction of large, clustering marimo in Iceland's Mývatn Lake in 2014, Lake Akan now stands as the sole location worldwide to witness this natural wonder. "Actually, forming them into spheres is not overly challenging," Mr. Wakana explains. "With meticulous environmental management, cultivating round marimo in an aquarium is feasible." Yet, Wakana adds, "This also implies that the marimo symbolize the unique traits of Akan's ecosystem. They represent a symbolic entity."

Why do the marimo balls in Lake Akan become spherical?
Simply put, they grow evenly while rotating, driven by wave, and gradually form into spheres. However, the conditions necessary for this transformation are quite specific. The size of the lake is a crucial factor for the spherical shape of marimo. The waves needed for the marimo to rotate while remaining stationary only occur in a lake with a surface distance similar to Lake Akan's, which is approximately 4 kilometers. Moreover, factors like the summer sea breeze from the Pacific Ocean, blowing at about 7 meters per second, and the ideal depth of the bays, among others, miraculously converge to shape the marimo of Lake Akan into spheres.
"This means that understanding marimo also leads to an understanding of Lake Akan itself," Mr. Wakana explains.

And the marimo are very delicate, making them excellent environmental indicators. Any change in the marimo is a sign of environmental change, alerting us first.
"It's crucial to have a story that resonates with the general public. However, it's not just about simplification. Why do they become round? Why is this phenomenon unique to Lake Akan worldwide? These backgrounds are significant. Instead of discussing them only as a rare tourist attraction, we should use marimo as a lens to understand Lake Akan and, more broadly, the world's nature. We need to convey this, even if it's complex, rather than solely focusing on simplicity.'"
To put it plainly, the story of the marimo is complex and not immediately graspable. That's why visiting the site is so vital. Additionally, we traveled by boat to the experimental marimo cultivation site at Shurikomabetsu. Here, the Ministry of the Environment is trying to grow spherical marimo. The aim is to create an area where people can interact with marimo. If successful, the general public might once again be able to see marimo, currently completely closed off for conservation. "As I have personally found, seeing them in person leads to numerous insights, so a place for interaction is essential. If we can find a balance between protection and use as a tourist resource, we can further reveal the deep nature of Lake Akan."
We are now entering an era that calls for more profound ecotourism. Instead of gravitating towards what is easily understood, let's think more deeply and observe nature from a wider perspective. Marimo might be communicating this very message.

A World-Class Ski Resort created by The Climate of Akan

Situated with a panoramic view of Lake Akan, this location transforms into a ski resort in winter. "Balancing tourism with environmental concerns is challenging. There's increasing awareness now, but this wasn't always the case. The Maeda Ippoen Foundation laid the groundwork," remarks Naoyuki Matsuoka, an observer of Akan's tourism for many years. The Akan-kohan National Ski Area, accredited by the International Ski Federation (FIS), hosts prestigious events, including the All-Japan Championships.
"The unique advantage of the Akan-kohan National Ski Area is its minimal snowfall. Surprisingly, this results in more sunny days, and the temperatures get extremely cold." Taking advantage of these conditions, they introduced snowmaking machines 35 years ago. By generating artificial snow and employing a technique called injection, which involves adding water to the snow, they create icy slopes suitable for Akan's frigid climate.
"Though general guests might prefer softer snow, our conditions are perfect for competitive skiing, akin to what is found in world championships or the Olympics." This is the reason why high school teams nationwide conpetition choose this location for training camps, and why it serves as a venue for FIS-sanctioned competitions.
"There are unique opportunities in Akan. We aim to create more such attractions," says Mr. Matsuoka. "To enhance the town, we should capitalize on Akan's natural offerings, not just the ski area. For example, despite our delicious kokanee salmon, there are no sushi restaurants here."

He believes that by leveraging the natural environment, its protection becomes crucial for human survival. Currently, there are plans to add another ski slope and to consider a day-trip hot spring facility for hikers. "I'm hesitant about it, as it involves tree removal. The conflict between nature conservation and tourism is inevitable. However, we cannot preserve nature without sustaining human communities. We're deeply involved in marimo conservation and aspire to showcase this to our children, instilling pride in their hometown. Ultimately, it's about the people and not just the environment. Sustainable protection is possible only when the local community is both financially and emotionally prosperous. If achieved, it will attract young people back and ensure continuity," Mr. Matsuoka shares his insightful perspective. His candid words, grounded in reality, highlight the complexities of managing a tourist destination that benefits both people and nature. It requires confronting these challenges directly and addressing them with full consciousness.

Drawing Lines Across Boundaries with a 400 km Long Trail

In Eastern Hokkaido, a new long trail is emerging. The "Hokkaido East Trail (HET)" extends across three national parks: Shiretoko, Akan-Mashu, and the Kushiro Shitsugen. Each park offers a journey on foot through Hokkaido's unique landscapes, climate, local lifestyles, culture, and history. Spanning approximately 400km, once completed, it will become the second-longest long trail in Japan, following the Michinoku Coastal Trail. Akan-Mashu National Park area revealed its distinctive feature: a walkable caldera terrain around Lake Kussharo. Mr. Keijiro Suehiro from the Ministry of the Environment's Akan-Mashu National Park Office has played a pivotal role in this project. He noted, "There are wonderful trails here, but they are not well-traveled, and their visibility is low. By creating this long trail, we aim to generate interest and support for the region's trails. Our goal is for this to become a destination for hikers worldwide."
Linking these paths presents several challenges. For instance, to ensure safe passage through national forests, municipalities must lease the paths from the government and maintain them. The project requires the cooperation of cities and towns; without it, the paths cannot be connected. Furthermore, it's essential to establish a system for disseminating information, including bear sighting alerts and safety precautions for nature walks, to ensure hiker safety. Despite numerous obstacles, we are working towards opening the trail by October 2024, with the support and encouragement of the local community.

With Mr. Suehiro we descend from Mount Mokoto towards Lake Kussharo on the Hokkaido East Trail. The path, neatly trimmed, winds through beautiful Dakekanba (birch) trees, offering glimpses of Lake Kussharo shimmering in the distance.

An angler swings his rod at Lake Kussharo - the trail captures the essence of Akan Mashu National Park. We passed Mount Iou, with its steaming fumaroles, and headed towards Tsutsuji-ga-hara. "Few people visit this area, but it's a trail I highly recommend. It feels somewhat removed from the rest of Japan, doesn't it?" Mr. Suehiro remarked. The landscape, dotted with dwarf pines on white sandy grounds, is reminiscent of a desert. This path leads to Kawayu Onsen, transitioning through various ecosystems: from dwarf pine zones to rhododendrons, broadleaf, and coniferous forests. Surprisingly, species typically found in alpine zones, like dwarf pines and rhododendrons, thrive here due to the volcanic gases and acidic soil from Mount Iou, creating a surreal place that makes you momentarily forget your altitude. Just exploring these fragments was enough to appreciate the trail's potential. Next time, I hope to walk its entire length. Tourism, often confined to specific spots, gains depth when these points are connected, revealing the subtle shifts in nature. Walking, akin to music, thrives on continuity and harmony."

Nature as an Ally: The Vision of a Hot Spring Town in the Forest

Kawayu Onsen is currently enveloped in the sounds of construction, signaling its transformation. The prosperity of the bubble era has quieted, and more abandoned hotels have recently been left untouched. The town now resonates with the sounds of these derelict hotels being dismantled, a sound that signifies hope.
The ongoing project in Kawayu Onsen is the development of a hot spring town within the forest. Titled "A Caldera Forest Hot Spring Town Woven by the River of Springs," the concept aims to bring the town’s river of hot springs to the forefront, expanding eateries and other businesses. The goal is to transform the area into a space where people can wander and explore. Additionally, there's a plan to synergize with the Hokkaido East Trail, incorporating aspects of a trail town. This plan includes establishing a trail center and camping sites, focusing on outdoor activities to enhance the experience.

"This place was my childhood playground. I often climbed to the top,' says Tetsuo Tokunaga, mayor of Teshikaga town, gazing at Mt. Iou, known in the Ainu language as 'Atosanupuri'—a mountain about 2 km from Kawayu Onsen and the source of its hot springs. Mayor Tokunaga has observed Kawayu Onsen for 74 years, starting from a nearby farm now passed on to his son. 'In the 90s, we had as many as 3,000 guests a day. The streets were so crowded at night, it was hard to walk. The decline in bus tourism is evident, and we must adapt to these changes."
The key lies in the natural assets of Teshikaga town. "We have not only beautiful natural scenery but also abundant agricultural products and high-quality Wagyu beef. We've discovered geothermal energy as well. Teshikaga is truly a blessed land." Active reforestation is underway to restore the lost forests. A rule is being considered to restrict buildings to less than three stories, matching the height of the trees, truly aiming for a hot spring town enveloped by forests.
The master plan illustration depicts buildings blending seamlessly into the forest, appearing sporadically amidst the trees. Though different in scale, it evokes the ambiance of American national parks. "We aim to create a town that satisfies both residents and visitors," says Mayor Tokunaga, who has been actively leading new initiatives like wineries and cheese factories. His passion for the local community and dynamic leadership are evident.

In Kawazu Onsen town, we had the opportunity to listen to Mr. Kenichi Miyazaki from the Akanko-Mashu National Park Kawayu Area Management Association while soaking our feet in the warm springs. This isn't merely a footbath but a river of hot springs flowing through the town, a place Mr. Miyazaki and others have spent years maintaining. "The spring is highly acidic, so there are no microorganisms. There's also no soil on the riverbed. As a result, fallen leaves don't decompose but accumulate instead. If these leaves mix with the soil on the banks, they decay and emit a foul smell. That's why we painstakingly clean it by hand," he explains.
Summertime presents a particular challenge. The combination of sunlight and the hot footbath feels akin to being boiled by the end of the workday.

Mr. Miyazaki, who has been a guardian of Kawazu Onsen's symbol—the river of hot springs—shared his views on the idea of a hot springs town in the forest. "Opinions are divided. Many current visitors to Kawazu Onsen appreciate its slightly desolate and small nature. Therefore, not everyone is enthusiastic about the new master plan. More visitors would be beneficial, of course. But determining the optimal number for this place is difficult. What's the right answer? We honestly don't know yet." In the 1980s, when Mr. Miyazaki was young, Kawazu Onsen was a bustling place. In the evenings, many visitors wearing geta sandals would stroll around. He yearns for a return to that scenery but believes that mere modernization and stylishness are not the solutions.

"We welcome big capital investments but don't want to become just that kind of town. Thus, it's time for the locals to take initiative," he adds. "We aim to define the essence of this place. The river flowing through the town, as the name Kawazu Onsen implies, is our main feature. I fully support a plan where visitors can enjoy the town centered around this river. It's been a hidden gem behind the hotels, and our organization has long advocated for its upkeep."
Plans are underway to make the riverside more accessible, including a promenade lined with eateries. This area, when enveloped in trees and mist, would present an enchanting beauty. In winter, frost and diamond dust are visible in the town due to the steam. "Originally, our organization's focus wasn't on cleaning but on relaying local opinions to the government. This initiative has been a catalyst for more communication and has highlighted the importance of dialogue. It's an excellent opportunity to re-assess our hometown."

The hot spring river flows all the way to Lake Kussharo. As I walked along the river with Mr. Miyazaki through the forest, where no clear trails exist in the dense, virgin woods, we reached the point where the hot spring river meets a normal river. To the left is water, and to the right is the hot spring, with slight steam rising from the latter. It's a wildly natural place that should remain undeveloped.

Mr. Miyazaki quietly remarks, "We hope to avoid becoming something that's just a fleeting fad, quickly forgotten. Whatever we do must be sustainable for both nature and the local community."
The interplay of new possibilities and local pride is essential for sustainable tourism development focused on nature. Whether it leads to better or worse outcomes is in our hands. This might be the enduring challenge for tourist destinations. Imagining a future hot springs town where tourism and the environment coexist harmoniously, it could serve as a role model. It's another place I'd like to revisit in five years.