Journey through the Old Tokaido Road:
Embracing the Past and Present of Hakone

Amidst the gentle drizzle, we ascended the quiet stone-paved road, taking our time to savor the moment.
In the heart of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park is the Old Tokaido Road of Hakone. While today, the term "Tokaido" points to Route 1, approximately 400 years ago, during the Edo period, this was the main road.
Among the stone-paved trail, not only are there reconstructed sections but also original parts dating back to the Edo period. These paths have been imprinted by countless travelers over the years, resulting in smoothed edges adorned with moss and exuding a remarkable luster. However, the stones can be quite slippery, yet the wisdom of the Edo period should not be underestimated – it is said that the straw sandals worn by the people of that era provided better grip than modern shoes.
Fascinatingly, before these stone-paved paths were established, this area was incredibly muddy and challenging to traverse, causing hardships for many travelers. Initially, they tried using bamboo from the surrounding area to cover the mud, but it constantly wore out quickly. Consequently, to avoid the frequent task of replacing it, they opted to lay heavy stones instead. These stone-paved paths are a testament to the perseverance and hard work of the people during the Edo period.

Taking a look around, you will be amazed by the lush nature that envelops the area. Various types of trees grow intertwined, creating a sense of closeness between us and the natural world.

After a two-hour walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station, a village suddenly appears.
Hatajuku, with origins dating back to the Warring States period, is also the birthplace of the traditional craft of parquetry, known as "Hakone-Yosegi-Zaiku." As the name "Yosegi" suggests (written as "collection of trees" in kanji), various types of wood are compressed and then shaved with a plane to create beautiful patterns.
We visited young Yosegi-Zaiku craftsmas Yuta Shimizu at his workshop "luthier," where we were greeted with the pleasant scent of wood and beautiful parquetry work.

Beautifully crafted wooden pieces called "Zuku" glide effortlessly into place. Mr. Shimizu carefully explained the types of wood he used as he handed me a piece of Zuku.
"This one is a zelkova tree and here we have a Japanese pagoda tree and a spruce tree. All of them are trees that grow in the forests around here."
Since the area has become a national park, they no longer use local wood, but this traditional craft has harmoniously coexisted with Hakone's nature over time. Through Yosegi-Zaiku, we gained a deeper appreciation of the richness of Hakone's forests, adding a newfound depth to our subsequent exploration of the woods. Our perspective of the forest changed, allowing us to appreciate it even more.
As we strolled through the forest, we took out the Yosegi-Zaiku bookmark we had just purchased and observed how it changed its appearance with the shifting light. The trees depicted in the parquetry seemed to come alive, reflecting the essence of the forest itself.

It was exactly lunchtime. We decided to have lunch at "Kikyoya," a renowned soba restaurant in Hatajuku that has been satisfying travelers' appetites for many years. The specialty dish is "Zaru-Toro," a refreshing zaru soba with grated yam and a locally sourced raw egg, offering a gentle taste that soothes tired bodies. With an empty stomach, we ordered the large serving and were astonished by the abundant portion.
"It's been this portion since my grandmother's time. She simply wanted everyone to leave with a full stomach,"
said Kanji Suzuki, the third generation owner of Kikyoya, somewhat bashfully.
As we rubbed our full stomachs, we noticed nearby signs with a bit frightening names such as "Nanamagari (Seven Bends)," "Sarusuberizaka (Monkey Sliding Hill)," and "Oikomizaka (The Final Push Hill)."
It seemed that steep hills were awaiting us beyond this point.
In preparation for the climb, we took a sip of water from a cool bottle. The water was provided by "Hoeiso," the ryokan we visited earlier. The owner, Kenichiro Hara, founded the "Hakone Yosebito Project," which offers travelers free access to Hakone's delicious water at various locations.
"I wanted to bridge the gap between the people living in Hakone and the travelers. It's part of the traditional hospitality of the old Tokaido Road," he explained.
Providing water was only a starting point. The project began with the desire to encourage interactions between residents and travelers.
Along with the warmth of the people, the pure water of Hakone seeped into our bodies, soothing our souls.

Just as we were about to give up from the steep climb, a magnificent building with a thatched roof appeared as if it were a savior. It was the "Amazake Chaya," a tea house which has healed the fatigue of countless travelers.
"Some of our customers have told us that this amazake saved their lives,"
said Satoshi Yamamoto, the 13th generation owner of the tea house, as he served the warm amazake that they prepare everyday.
"The steep hill that you just climbed is the secret key ingredient, making it so delicious,"
he continues with a mischievous laugh.
This tea house, which dates back to the Edo period, was also a resting place for the daimyo (feudal lord) processions during their official journeys.
Thinking about this, and perhaps due to the dimly lit, gloomy room, it felt as if we slipped back in time to the Edo period.
Sipping amazake and eating freshly grilled rice cake while listening to Mr. Yamamoto's stories - It warmed up every fiber of our being. If this deliciousness was due to the steep hill earlier, it is more than rewarding as a treat.
The amazake made here has retained its traditional production method since the Edo period, using only rice malt and rice, making it a highly nutritious drink. It is completely different from those made with sake lees and added sugar.
"It's like a sports drink from the Edo period,"
Mr. Yamamoto shares, adding that it is also referred to as a "drinkable intravenous drip" or "drinkable beauty serum." The potential of amazake is truly impressive.

Continuing our journey from the Amazake Chaya, we made our way toward Lake Ashi. Along the way, we stopped at the Otamagaike Pond, where a tragic tale unfolds.
Over 300 years ago, a young girl named Otama was captured for illegally crossing the "Hakone Checkpoint." Otama was serving in Edo (present-day Tokyo), but feeling homesick, she broke the checkpoint barrier. At that time, the penalty for such an act was severe and she was beheaded. It is said that her head was then washed at this very location by the people who felt sorry for her, thus the name "Otamagaike Pond."
Now, it is just a beautiful pond with reeds swaying in the gentle breeze.

As we descended the hill, Lake Ashinoko finally came into view, but the weather was unfortunate that day. While a clear view of Mount Fuji from the lake is impressive, there is also something intriguing about the mist that blankets the area. The reflections on the water's surface in the mist create an illusion, as if beckoning us into another realm. One can't help but wonder about the awe that Edo period travelers must have felt witnessing such scenery. Embracing this mystical weather adds a touch of nostalgia and reflection on the past.

In the pouring rain, we pressed on towards the "Hakone Checkpoint." The wind picked up as we ventured forward. Suddenly, a majestic avenue of cedar trees appeared before us. Around 400 towering cedars, with an age of approximately 350 years, lined the path. This avenue was meticulously planted during the Edo period to shield travelers from the harsh wind and rain. Even today's modern travelers, equipped with advanced rainwear, can't help but appreciate the protection they provide. For Edo period travelers, who wore straw hats and coats, this avenue must have been a truly relieving and comforting space.
Finally, we arrived at Hakone Checkpoint.
The present-day Hakone Checkpoint was reconstructed in 2007, meticulously recreated through extensive research on historical documents from the Edo period. Carefully constructed using authentic techniques and tools from that era, the building now perfectly mirrors its original state during the Edo period. As we immerse ourselves in the ambiance of Edo period travelers, the word 'looming' comes to mind, aptly describing its imposing and majestic presence.

During our journey, we explored numerous places where the spirit of Edo still thrives, but nowhere else in Japan is the essence of that era so beautifully preserved in such a compact area. As we delved into its history and connected with its people, Hakone continuously unveiled new facets for us to discover.
As our journey neared its end, an intriguing sensation washed over us – despite being close to Tokyo, Hakone had somehow transported us to a distant realm. Reflecting on the rich history of the old Tokaido Road and the existence of Edo period Hakone, it felt as though we had embarked on a voyage through time itself.