Drift Ice - Crafting the Circle of Life

Once again this year, the drift ice has arrived.

Drift ice is like the heartbeat of life in Shiretoko.
In Shiretoko, drift ice is the pulse of life. The gleaming expanse before us, resembling a snow-covered plain, will soon begin to melt as spring approaches.

While Shiretoko is typically regarded as the northernmost point of Japan, within the context of the Okhotsk Sea, it stands as the southernmost point. As the sea with the lowest latitude globally, it stands as the warmest location where drift ice arrives—a rarity. Here, spring's intense sunlight melts the ice, marking a unique phenomenon.

As the ice dissolves, it releases a wealth of nutrients, including phytoplankton called ice algae and inorganic salts carried from the Amur River, into the sea. This triggers a chain reaction: zooplankton thrive on these nutrients, becoming a feast for salmon, attracting other marine life like seals. Even birds such as white-tailed sea eagles and Steller's sea eagles benefit. When salmon return to the rivers to spawn, they nourish brown bears, and in death, they sustain various organisms, completing a rich cycle of life that nurtures the forest.

Hajime Nakagawa from the Public Interest Incorporated Foundation for Shiretoko Institute of Wildlife Management explained these fundamentals to us beforehand. The purpose of our trip was to explore Shiretoko, tracing the cycle of drift ice and the wildlife it supports.

The Shiretoko ecosystem begins with drift ice, extending from the far reaches of the Amur River basin.
Given the extraordinary combination of factors at play, it's important to approach it from various angles, seeking insights from people in different positions.

According to Akihiko Kosaka, a longtime fisherman in Utoro, drift ice once towered over 10 meters high. Now, it barely reaches a meter, clearly declining over the years. Even studies by the Meteorological Agency show a consistent decline since the 1970s.

The white, icy sea before us might not be around for much longer.

"If the sea changes, everything changes. Shiretoko became a World Heritage Site due to its complex ecosystem integrating the sea and land. And at its core lies drift ice," explained Mr. Nakagawa.

Today, Shiretoko is bustling with tourists, and activities like walking on the drift ice are immensely popular. However, few seem to grasp the vital link between drift ice and Shiretoko's ecosystem.

Let's begin with the iconic salmon.
Chum salmon, pink salmon, and cherry salmon make their way up the rivers of Shiretoko.

On a typical winter morning in Shiretoko, with temperatures dropping to minus 15 degrees Celsius, we joined Takashi Mori to observe the cherry salmon fry. Mr. Mori works in the Fisheries and Forestry Division of the Shari Town Hall, overseeing the salmon's habitat. "They're in shallow waters like this. Can you see them?" he points out, indicating the lively cherry salmon fry, about the size of medaka fish, swimming energetically. It is heartwarming to see them already resembling the shape of adult cherry salmon.

These fry will head out to sea next spring and, after several years in the ocean, return to Shiretoko's rivers for spawning, transporting nutrients from the sea to the rivers—an indispensable part of Shiretoko's circle of life.

Currently, he is collaborating with the fishery cooperative on a project to increase the natural spawning of salmon, which should also benefit the incubation business.

"Fish born in the wild need to grow up in a very harsh environment. That's why the weak die, and only the strong survive. As the eggs of these stronger fish are utilized in the incubation process, the resulting offspring are expected to inherit their robust traits. I believe that maintaining a balance between various initiatives is important," he explains.

Encouraged by Mr. Mori's suggestion, "Please explore the river in the area preserved by the Shiretoko 100-Square-Meter Movement," we headed past Utoro, into the forest.

Shiretoko is a habitat for many creatures such as brown bears, white-tailed sea eagles, Steller's sea eagles, Blakiston's fish owl, and orcas, who are the top predators of the ecosystem. And the abundant salmon population is what supports them. Thus, when salmon populations decrease, it naturally affects the predators at the top of the food chain, causing them to struggle to find food.

That is why, if we want to protect the top, we must first look at the foundation that supports them - the salmon and the rivers.

Putting on our snowshoes, we ventured alongside the snow-covered banks of the Iwaubetsu River with our guide, Hajime Terayama. This area is a part of the conservation and restoration efforts spearheaded by the "Shiretoko 100-Square-Meter Movement." This initiative, dating back to 1977, looks ahead to the next 100 or 200 years, aiming to reclaim the wilderness once lost to human intervention.

While the primary focus is on forest restoration, equal emphasis is placed on ecosystem rejuvenation. Consequently, the rivers where salmon return are integral to these endeavors. This is the very spot Mr. Mori urged us to witness.

Mr. Terayama stopped at the confluence of the Akai River.

"Here is where we are also working on restoring the river to its natural state," he said.

Efforts involve widening the river to create areas with gentle currents, rapid flows, and deep pools. Additionally, the once straightened channel is being redirected to meander, utilizing rocks and natural elements found there. Essentially, the goal is to revert the river to its natural course. Thus, the hands that once altered it are now the ones restoring it to its original state.
It is believed that restoring the river to its natural state can enhance the spawning habitat for salmon. Initiatives such as dam removal, an uncommon proactive measure in other regions, are being undertaken.
This site embodies the significance of acknowledging mistakes as they are.

"Even in our pursuit to restore this area to its original state, we recognize that it cannot return to a state devoid of human influence. Thus, determining the right course of action remains a challenge. However, I believe collective brainstorming from various perspectives is important," he remarked.

During autumn, when salmon return to the rivers, efforts are made to facilitate their passage. This includes creating artificial passageways in locations where dams impede upstream migration, ensuring the salmon's successful return journey.
This collaborative endeavor, spearheaded by Mr. Mori, encompasses individuals from the town office, volunteer groups, and young members of the fishery cooperative, united in their mission to safeguard Shiretoko's invaluable resource: the salmon.

Unfortunately, even with today's science and technology, it is impossible to communicate directly with nature itself. Hence, humans must ponder the best course of action—since we initially intervened in nature's affairs, should we persist in responsible intervention until the end? Or, stop human intervention altogether and let nature's healing ability take care of itself?
It is a very difficult decision.
Unlike the vast untouched wilderness of North America, Shiretoko has already been deeply influenced by human activity. Therefore, perhaps the former approach is more suited to this context.

In our quest to uncover traces of wildlife, we delved into the depths of the primeval forest with our guide, Satoshi Wakatsuki.

The footprints left by the Hokkaido squirrel were a delightful find.

Descending from a tree, hastily crossing the path, then ascending another tree, it seemed to be in pursuit of food on the opposite side, even at the risk of danger. Imagining its determined dash across the road was strangely heartwarming.

"Here we have claw marks left by a brown bear."
Clearly etched into the sturdy fir tree, intertwined with wild grapevines, suggesting the bear's climb to feast on the grapes.

We were taken aback by the size of the feeding holes made by the black woodpecker - some as large as a person's forearm - and they were a common sight. To sustain their large bodies, these woodpeckers tirelessly scoured the forest for sustenance. We also discovered numerous burrows, often replaced yearly, where even flying squirrels sought refuge during winter.

"They even utilize mushrooms known as polypores to construct sheltered nests. You can see all these different techniques, which makes each one unique," explained Mr. Watatsuki.

We strained our ears, hoping to catch the drumming sound made by woodpeckers as they peck at trees. Unfortunately, we could not hear it, but amidst the forest's serenity, we were surprised by an array of sounds - the gentle fall of snow, the gusts of wind, and the rustle of leaves.

"Isn't it amazing how just by using your imagination, you can discover so many fascinating things from these traces?" Mr. Wakatsuki remarked. With just a bit of knowledge and imagination, you can enjoy the company of these creatures without needing to take a close-up photo.

Lately, there has been a problem in Shiretoko with people getting too close to brown bears. Many individuals, driven by a desire to capture the perfect shot, have approached these bears recklessly. However, such familiarity with humans can lead to problematic behavior in bears, which is why the Shiretoko Foundation has been working hard to raise awareness. Since April 2022, the National Parks Law has put rules in place against feeding or approaching wild animals in parks. And starting from October 2023, in Shiretoko, you could get fined for getting within 30 meters of an animal or following it within 50 meters.

Many photographers and tourists visit Shiretoko because they adore its wildlife. However, if accidents were to happen due to people getting too close, it would be the brown bears that suffer the consequences. It is important for people to realize that getting too close for a photograph isn't cool.

"These are the footprints of an Ezo deer. You can tell it was pushing forward even as it plowed through the deep snow. When I see these, I think about how challenging it must be for the deer to survive winter," Mr. Wakatsuki explained. As he led us deeper into the forest, we stumbled upon patches without snow under the trees - these were deer beds. And as we glanced further into the forest, we spotted deer standing quietly, enduring the cold.
The deer are also fighting to survive. They are often blamed for crop damage, but it all stems from human development, which limits their habitat and led to the extinction of their natural predator, the wolf.

"The tip of this branch was nibbled by a deer," Mr. Wakatsuki pointed out.
Even a simple fallen tree serves a purpose. Its fall allowed deer to reach the tender buds at the top.
This brought to mind the scenes of salmon spawning in autumn. After their strenuous upstream journey, the salmon die after spawning, and at that moment, the seagulls feast on them.
Shiretoko illustrates how one creature's death can sustain another's life.

"That's how tough life is here. I've even seen a fox waiting nearby for a weak deer to perish," he added.


Emerging from the forest, we reached the shores of the Okhotsk Sea.
Drifting ice clashed with frozen waterfalls on sheer cliffs, presenting a spectacular sight.

"These views are usually reserved for polar regions. No matter how many times I see them, they always leave me speechless," remarked Mr. Nakagawa.

Above, a Steller's sea eagle ride the updrafts, gracefully soaring towards the Shiretoko mountain range.

A brisk wind swept in from the sea.

These winds carried not only drift ice but also creatures synonymous with Shiretoko, such as the Steller's sea eagles and white-tailed sea eagles.

Mr. Nakagawa's words echoed in our minds, "Surprisingly, these eagles are greatly impacted by human activities. While they may continue to breed even with cars passing nearby, the presence of a photographer aiming for a close-up shot could prompt them to abandon their nests."

White-tailed eagles nest not only in the primeval forests but also in close proximity to farmlands and highways. Consequently, if a white-tailed sea eagle's nest is discovered, construction work in the area may be postponed to avoid disturbing the breeding season. Although there were numerous deaths from electrocution on power lines in the past, efforts such as installing perches on utility poles have been implemented to mitigate this risk.

"The most common accidents involving both Steller's sea eagles and white-tailed sea eagles are train-related. It's perplexing, given that Shiretoko isn't urbanized and doesn't have many trains. However, due to the overpopulation of deer, train collisions are frequent, and the eagles, drawn to the carcasses for food, become victims themselves. While deer carcasses along highways can be promptly removed, those near railroad tracks pose a challenge. Currently, we're exploring methods like wrapping deer carcasses in special sheets to address this issue."

In recent years, there has been a rise in incidents where white-tailed sea eagles collide with wind turbines. This poses a dilemma considering efforts to conserve these eagles alongside wind power generation.

We also had the privilege of joining Daisuke Imura and his team on their sea eagle observation research expedition. Their meticulous routine involves traversing the same route at the same time regularly, counting the sea eagles they encounter.

"At this time of year, we observe more sea eagles on the Rausu side, drawn by the abundance of walleye pollock during the fishing season. Conversely, during autumn, more eagles flock to the Utoro side for salmon. Some days, we've counted over a hundred birds," shared Mr. Imura.

In addition to the sea eagle observation research, the Ministry of the Environment leads various long-term monitoring efforts in Shiretoko, including tracking the brown bear population and monitoring salmon migration numbers and spawning sites in the rivers.
A decade has passed since these initiatives began. While it may take time to draw conclusions, these ongoing efforts serve as both a call to action for the present and a path forward for the future.

White-tailed sea eagle nests are said to span the size of two tatami mats. Although we thought we spotted something resembling them roadside, after Mr. Nakagawa's insights, we felt strongly not to disturb them needlessly. Hence, we refrained from taking photographs.

On the drift ice of Utoro Fishing Port, a group of people is busy with a peculiar task.
They are a team aiming to set a world record in ice freediving. Their mission? To dive 126 meters beneath the drift ice without taking a breath. Using chainsaws, they carve several holes in the ice for entry, emergencies, and the finish line.

Among them is Yui Takagi, who has been ice freediving here for years. According to Ms. Takagi, cutting holes into the ice has become easier compared to when she started ice freediving in 2013. This suggests that the ice has been thinning over the years.

Their event, known as the Drift Ice Cup, hosted by Ms. Takagi and her team, attracts not only Japanese participants but also people from various countries who come to dive under the ice. By introducing people from around the world to the drift ice in this way, they hope to raise awareness about the importance of preserving it.

"Beyond our goal of breaking records, we also want to highlight that there's still an abundance of drift ice here. By sparking interest among different people, we aim to convey the significance of the drift ice," Ms. Takagi explains.

Ms. Takagi's words, "These drift ice may disappear one day," send a shiver down the spine.
If the drift ice were to vanish, the impact on the ecosystem would be immeasurable.

As the final part of our journey, we visit Mr. Airda, who works at the Shiretoko World Heritage Center.
A musician as well, Mr. Airda came to Shiretoko four years ago. His arrival was not prompted by any special attachment to the place but rather a spontaneous decision, quite unusual for people in Shiretoko.

The individuals we have so far have all had deep connections to Shiretoko. Therefore, we also sought to hear perspectives from a more neutral standpoint.

Driving along his daily commute route with Mr. Airda, he shares,

"I drive this road every day. Over time, I've learned to appreciate Shiretoko's beauty through this daily routine. For example, in Tokyo, I never really noticed the wind. But here, I've realized that depending on its direction and strength, it can significantly affect the perceived temperature."

As the drift ice melts, spring arrives. In summer, salmon begin their upstream journey, and in autumn, the Mizunara trees (quercus crispula) in the mountains turn yellow. Then, the drift ice returns. In this land, one can vividly witness the changing of the four seasons.

"You can even see salmon swimming upstream in those ditches here. It was through such small observations that I slowly began to realize how connected I was to nature," he reflects.

Since moving from Tokyo to Shiretoko, the music he creates has gradually evolved.

"I'm still a work in progress, but I hope to incorporate the feelings I get from experiencing Shiretoko's nature and landscapes into my work," he says.

Turning what he sees, hears, and feels in Shiretoko into music is an ambitious plan. However, there is something about Shiretoko that fills us with anticipation, making it an integral part of this place's charm.

"Among Shiretoko's natural wonders, I particularly love the drift ice. Until I came here, I associated drift ice with silence, even death. However, it's quite the opposite — it's the foundation of all living things," he remarks.

We arrive at the coast where he often observes the drift ice. In the distance, a mirage shimmers.

"The music I create isn't flashy, so I feel a sense of connection with this scenery. This kind of scenery has finally become part of my daily life."

Shiretoko's nature and its surrounding environment resonate even with those who have never been interested in nature. We believe that having more people like Mr. Airda is important for nature.

Upon returning to Tokyo, we listen carefully to his musical creations. With closed eyes, we can envision Shiretoko's scenery and feel its air. Perhaps it is because we have come to understand Shiretoko more deeply through our journey.

What we found while tracing the tracks of drift ice and wildlife was the presence of people who wish to protect it. It was a journey where we felt everyone's love for this land in their own way.
It felt as if these people were one of the "animals" that live in Shiretoko. Shiretoko is a place where one can enjoy the richness of nature, both physically and emotionally.
Where there are blessings, there are also threats. Where there is beauty, there is also harshness.
That is how close to the wild this land is.

There is much to learn from Shiretoko, but what struck us most is that perhaps humans may need to return to the cycle of nature.

The sea, the rivers, the forests, and the diverse wildlife.
All are intricately intertwined. And of course, humans are also included. There must be a role for us in the natural world that goes beyond destruction — something only humans can fulfill.